This classic of mountaineering literature is a biography of Alaska's Mount McKinley which presents a complete history of one of the world's great mountains. Author and famed mountaineer Fred Beckey is synonymous with mountaineering in Alaska and he starts with McKinley's geology and covers early human history, from native associations with Denali to the influx of Russian fur traders and American prospectors. Beckey's writing is peppered with personal anecdotes and unique photographs. The mountaineering history of McKinley follows, with a look at the gold seekers and surveyors who were among the first to map the region. Beckey examines the efforts of those who raced to be first on McKinley's summit and details the first complete ascent by Hudson Stuck in 1913. The chronology continues with profiles of notable summit attempts, including those of the author himself. Also included is information about the challenges and logistics of climbing Mount McKinley, with information on planning, permits, suggested routes, and what to expect. Personal anecdotes and previously unpublished photographs make this volume a must-have for historians and climbers everywhere.